Using the Strongest Glue - a Life Saver, or a Recipe for Disaster?

Whether you are new to the lash business or are an experienced Lash Artist, you must have heard or asked this one particular question: “What’s the best lash glue?”

I have asked and have been asked. Back when I wasn’t aware how important it is to know all the things that are responsible for good retention—this is, in fact, what we are looking for, right?—I was always keeping one eye on new products, thinking the best glue was yet to come. But as with life in general, everything you need right now may already be here for you. The same goes for finding the best glue for eyelash extensions.

Confused? Let’s dive into the pursuit of Mr. Right—the ideal glue that will keep you and your clients happy and satisfied.

I’ll be honest: the truth is that there's no singular ‘best’ glue for eyelash extensions. Different adhesives can deliver excellent retention when they suit your working conditions and application speed. Even more confused? Good! This means you are taking everything into consideration, which is exactly what you should be doing when seeking the perfect lash adhesive to work with.

Temperature and Humidity in Your Work Environment

Of course, you should pay attention to all of the above if you want to achieve amazing retention, but let’s first discuss the temperature and humidity of your work environment.

Professional lash extension adhesives typically use cyanoacrylate to create the bond. Their formulations can also include stabilisers and, in black adhesives, pigment. Differences in formulation affect how quickly they cure, their consistency and their recommended working conditions. So what makes one adhesive a better match for you than another?

It’s how they react to the environment! Cyanoacrylate cures in the presence of moisture. Generally, higher humidity speeds up curing, while lower humidity slows it down. Always check the recommended range for your particular adhesive.

When we talk about humidity, we mean the humidity in your workspace, not the weather reading on your smartphone. Invest in a hygrometer for accurate temperature and humidity readings so that you can be sure you're getting the best out of your lash glue!

Ready to sprinkle some water drops onto your client’s lashes to make your adhesive work faster? Not so fast! Too much moisture can cause shock polymerisation, leaving a brittle bond and white residue. If you’ve seen adhesive turn white after a client’s eyes have watered, this may be what happened. Keep application controlled and follow your adhesive manufacturer’s instructions.

Match Your Application Speed to Your Adhesive

Now, imagine someone buying a quick-drying lash glue and using it in a beauty room with high humidity. That already quick-drying adhesive may cure even faster. If this person is an experienced Lash Technician, this may be no problem. But if they are less experienced, this situation could bring about poor retention and complaints because their working speed is not in tune with the speed of the glue in those conditions.

Room temperature also affects how your adhesive behaves. Warmer conditions generally speed up curing, while cooler conditions can slow it down and change the glue’s consistency. Measure conditions near your treatment area and work within the temperature and humidity ranges specified for your adhesive.

There isn’t one temperature and humidity range that suits every lash glue. Some formulas have a wider working range, which can be convenient if you find your workspace conditions difficult to control—for example, when working within a hair salon.

Our Flexie glue is one option to explore. As the name suggests, it offers flexibility in working conditions. Check its current product instructions to make sure it suits your room and application speed. If you prefer to work more slowly, Lady Bond could be your best friend. If you’re very fast—like, SUPER fast—Royal Bond could be a game changer!

Still Seeing Retention Issues?

What if your conditions are within the recommended range, but you’re STILL seeing retention issues? Well, your adhesive could be curing before you complete the attachment. Have you ever brushed through a set of lashes and seen extensions simply pinging off? Premature curing is one possible cause, although preparation, attachment and adhesive freshness also need checking.

If your adhesive is curing too quickly for your placement speed, a slower-drying formula may give you the time you need to achieve a secure attachment. Always check that each extension is properly bonded and isolated before moving on.

Hopefully, now you can understand why there really isn’t only one best lash glue out there, and why we might ask you more questions when you ask us which is the best glue for eyelash extensions. When choosing your lash glue, consider your working environment and application speed rather than simply looking for the strongest, fastest glue.

Written by guest blogger and LLP Trainer in Slovenia, Nives Špehar.